PARIS — September 10, 2026
Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello has revealed that Bianca Censori’s distinctive approach to fashion influenced his Fall/Winter 2024 collection, describing his idea as a meeting between her contemporary style and the house’s classic design language.
Vaccarello discussed the inspiration during an appearance on Fashion Neurosis with Bella Freud, released September 9. The conversation offers a more specific explanation of a connection that had previously been visible mainly through comparisons between Censori’s public looks and Saint Laurent’s sheer, body-conscious runway designs. The podcast is part of the Vox Media Podcast Network.
Key points
- Vaccarello said Censori’s style helped inspire the Fall/Winter 2024 Saint Laurent collection.
- His aim was to combine elements associated with Censori with the draping and silhouettes of Yves Saint Laurent.
- Censori has separately said Vaccarello told her that her hosiery had influenced a YSL show.
- The connection is therefore based on Vaccarello’s own description and Censori’s account, rather than speculation from fashion observers.
Vaccarello explained that he was interested in bringing together what he saw as two very different fashion worlds: Censori’s highly contemporary image and the established language of Yves Saint Laurent. He described the concept as a kind of collage, with the contrast eventually informing a single silhouette.
The Fall/Winter 2024 collection, presented in Paris in February 2024, was notable for its extensive use of extremely sheer fabrics and lingerie-like styling. Contemporary fashion coverage highlighted the collection’s transparent, body-revealing construction, which made comparisons with Censori’s public wardrobe almost inevitable.
But the newly resurfaced comments add an important distinction: the resemblance was not simply a case of audiences projecting Censori’s style onto the runway. Vaccarello says her aesthetic was part of his creative thinking.
Censori has also described a direct encounter with Vaccarello at Los Angeles’ Chateau Marmont. In an interview with Vanity Fair, she said the designer told her that her hosiery had influenced a Saint Laurent show.
That account provides separate context for Vaccarello’s comments and helps explain why Censori’s influence is particularly relevant to the Fall/Winter 2024 collection. Still, neither account establishes that the collection was designed solely around Censori. Vaccarello’s description instead points to her style as one element that he deliberately combined with the heritage of Yves Saint Laurent.
The result was a collection that placed classic Saint Laurent draping alongside unusually transparent materials and silhouettes—an approach that, in retrospect, makes the connection to Censori’s fashion language considerably less coincidental than it first appeared.
